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How To Repair Key Fob Battery Holder

This 2002 Chevy Impala's fundamental fob is pretty worn, but that's not why it's dead.

How to fix a key trick

Dead batteries are a common reason why key fobs die, merely sometimes connections tin can break. Here's how to fix a common failure in GM fobs.

Unless you own a motorcar that's old enough to vote, you've got a keyless entry pull a fast one on.

These remotes, even the proximity-way and push-button first fobs, all use batteries that occasionally require replacement. It's the most common reason for fob failure.

While the push contacts in well-nigh any fob can article of clothing out, the fobs used by many GM models also have a mutual internal failure that can return one push button or the entire remote non-functional. It's a pretty like shooting fish in a barrel fix.

In that location are a few things that are known to go wrong with these remotes — however it must be said that they tend not to neglect outright without experiencing some kind of trauma.

Getting in sync

The contacts inside the buttons practice wear out — obvious if wiggling or squeezing the buttons sometimes brand it work.

If the remote has been inoperative for a long time (i.e. dead battery), you may demand to resync information technology by holding the "Lock" and "Unlock" buttons simultaneously for several seconds.

The most mutual failure is the one we're going to set.

Split information technology up

There are several ways to access the bombardment in fobs and remotes. Some use ane or more small screws, some accept a bombardment door, others crave partial disassembly. There's unremarkably a slot suitable for a coin, screwdriver, or even kitchen knife to be twisted to carve up the halves. If at that place'due south no slot, carefully employ an appropriate tool to wedge them apart.

Look for a slot to carefully pry the fob apart. The Lear-made fobs, used by a vast number of GM models, split in half.

Open up it over a proper work surface similar a table or workbench, as there may be a small loose part inside that we're going to need in a moment.

Bridge the gap

With the flim-flam split open, we tin see the excursion board and battery. If you look closely near the center of the photograph, yous tin see that the metallic clip that holds the battery is non sitting where it is supposed to.

There is a bare solder spot and two small slots exposed on the board itself. This separation is the common failure.

The metal tab not only holds the bombardment in place, information technology is as well the positive conductor for the remote. Where the two modest tabs go through the excursion board, they connect to the board's wiring. If just one breaks off, it may only bear upon one button.

Erase the problem

With the clip removed from the remote, it'southward easier to see the small-scale metal fingers on it that beetle through the circuit board. These tabs are also under leap pressure when the bombardment is installed, as the central "finger" presses the battery down to hold it in place and create electrical contact on both the top and bottom.

The grid visible on the board is the negative contact - it touches the central part of the bottom of the coin cell.

The grid visible on the board is the negative contact. It touches the central function of the bottom of the coin cell. Y'all can use a pencil eraser to make clean both this and the similar-looking push button contacts on the board'south contrary side.

Oestrus it upward

When soldering, there are a few points to go along in listen. Showtime, electronics don't similar excessive heat, so practise caution with the iron. Heat the tab and melt the solder on it, not the atomic number 26. Ensure that the tab is hot plenty that the solder flows into the holes and the depression on the board. Also, don't use too much solder, and be sure to employ solder intended for electronics, not plumbing. I prefer a 1 mm diameter rosin cadre.

The clip will almost always simply sit back in place, with the tabs conveniently holding it in position while you work.

Fix to go

This is not the prettiest repair I've ever done – don't have photos while soldering. The play a trick on had been fixed, even so, and should remain and so. Total office was restored, and the possessor was very pleased not to have to choose between the cost of replacement and reprogramming or losing her keyless entry characteristic.

The remote shown is an older style, widely used throughout GM's product range from the mid-90s. There is a newer, slightly less rounded fob that replaced it in the mid-2000s, which fails and is repaired the same way.

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Source: https://www.thestar.com/autos/2016/03/11/how-to-fix-a-key-fob.html

Posted by: yatescoultan.blogspot.com

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